I ran the following command,
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gsettings set org.gnome.desktop.media-handling automount false
I ran "gsettings ... automount false" hoping it would undo the damage, but no such luck.
I used time shift to revert to an older snapshot, but the enormous icons persisted.
I logged out (of MATE) and logged back in using the the openbox wm, but the icons were still huge.
I made another user account and logged into their account in MATE, and the new user had normal size icons.
Reset everything with dconf -r / and the icons were back to normal size, but if course my substantial amount of customization was totally gone.
[Edit to add: I also tried clicking the desktop and pressing ctrl-minus and plus, which did nothing]
I can manually re-do all my tweaks, but...
... What the heck happened here? Is there a better way to fix this problem, than just wiping my entire desktop configuration? That's not just a theoretical question because in between creating the situation and improving the situation, I had to clone the drive (long story) so I want to fix it on the other clone, an easier way
Thanks in advance for any help!
~Colm
Edit to add: no, unfortunately trying to set automount to false did not actually stop automounting of anything.